EatStreet
Amsterdam · Vol. 001
Chapter 06 · 12 places
06

Noord

Take the free ferry behind Central Station and the city opens up: shipyards turned dining rooms, greenhouses you eat inside, a waterfront that does sunsets like it's showing off. Noord is the frontier chapter, distances are longer, rooms are stranger, and the cooking is more ambitious than it has any obligation to be. Bring a bike or surrender to the ferry timetable.

Vuurtoreneiland
Photo: Vuurtoreneiland
01

Vuurtoreneiland

Boat out, six courses over fire, a lighthouse island to yourselves.

Amsterdam's most extreme dinner reservation: a boat, a lighthouse island in the Buiten-IJ, and a six-course menu cooked largely over fire by people who grow, pickle and preserve most of it themselves. In summer you eat in a glasshouse among the island's greenery; from October the whole operation moves into the vaulted nineteenth-century fort, all candlelight and stone. The €110 ticket covers the crossing, snacks on board and dessert served on the way home, which beats any petit four ever plated. It sells on a rolling three-month window, new dates drop daily at 13:00, and persistence is genuinely required. Worth it: this is slow, smoky, deeply Dutch cooking in a setting no city restaurant can counterfeit, on an island that spends the rest of its time as a nature reserve. Take someone you're serious about and let the boat do the rest.

Order · Save room, dessert is served on the boat back to the mainland.

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Hotel de Goudfazant
Photo: Hotel de Goudfazant
02

Hotel de Goudfazant

The garage that invented Noord dining, still its best-value French table.

Nearly twenty years on, this is still the blueprint for eating in Noord: a cavernous former car garage where the ceiling disappears somewhere above the wine racks and half of Amsterdam celebrates birthdays at long linen-draped tables under a chandelier built from bottles. The kitchen cooks French classics without fuss, onion soup, duck, a proper côte de boeuf when it appears, and the three-course menu remains one of the better deals in the city, hovering around forty euros. Vintage cars still sit among the diners; the room smells faintly of engine oil and beurre blanc, which is exactly the point. Service is quick and cheerfully unbothered. Come with six people, order magnums, and watch the cooks work the open kitchen at the back. Everything the Hamerkwartier has become started here, and the original is still worth crossing the IJ for.

Order · Stick with the three-course menu and split the côte de boeuf if it's on that night.

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Café Modern
Photo: Café Modern
03

Café Modern

Set-menu cooking in a former bank, with private dining in the vault.

Since 2012 the old Twentsche Bank building off the Meidoornplein has been quietly serving some of the most confident food in Noord. There's no à la carte theatre here: you sit down to a rotating five, six or seven-course menu (€67.50–€80) built entirely on seasonal produce from small local suppliers, and you let the kitchen drive. The room does moody bank-hall glamour, red chairs, low light, sun striping across white tablecloths, and upstairs there's a three-room boutique hotel if the wine list wins. The actual bank vault in the basement seats fourteen for private dinners, which is the best flex in the neighbourhood. Going to a film or concert nearby? Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday they run a three-course theatre menu at €39.50, an outright steal from this kitchen. Closed Tuesdays; weekends they open at noon for lunch on the terrace.

Order · Solo? Take the bar: oysters and a glass first, then let them run the full menu anyway.

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Coba Taqueria
Photo: Coba Taqueria / A Delicious Story
04

Coba Taqueria

Amsterdam's most serious Mexican cooking, in a shed behind the workshops.

Named for the Mayan city and parked in a shed on Schaafstraat behind Hotel de Goudfazant, Coba is where Amsterdam finally got serious about Mexican food. The menu shifts with the seasons but the method holds: proper tortillas, salsas with real heat, tacos and tostadas landing whenever they're ready, and a guacamole that comes with fried grasshoppers for the brave. Count on three to four plates each, around fifty-five euros before drinks, and let the mezcal list, one of the deepest in the city, do the steering. The room is dim, loud and cantina-cozy; Gault&Millau lists it, locals book it out, and the kitchen refuses to rush anything. Reserve ahead, budget a slow hour and a half, and start with whatever tostada is on that week. A taqueria in name, a genuinely serious restaurant in execution.

Order · Order the guacamole with chapulines, fried grasshoppers, and a mezcal cocktail alongside.

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Restaurant Barracuda
Photo: Restaurant Barracuda
05

Restaurant Barracuda

A 250-seat seafood hall running like an Italian beach shack on the IJ.

Five friends took over an industrial hall between FC Hyena and Goudfazant, filled it with 250 seats, and started running fish out of the kitchen like a beach shack on the Adriatic: whole fish from the oven, squid off the plancha, kibbeling made from the day's catch, and roughly two thousand oysters a week. Het Parool came, gave it a 9, and now the tables turn all night, though with a room this size, a walk-in usually works out. Everything is built for the middle of the table, prices stay friendly for seafood, and dessert may arrive via Tarbot, a trolley-robot dressed in shells and fishing net, which reads as either charming or unhinged depending on your wine intake. Summer brings a big rough-edged terrace outside. Loud, generous, slightly chaotic: Noord in restaurant form.

Order · Kibbeling made from the day's catch, plus a first round of oysters while you decide.

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Il Pecorino
Photo: Il Pecorino (Local Minded)
06

Il Pecorino

The proper Italian trattoria every neighbourhood deserves; Van der Pek actually got one.

Il Pecorino started life as an NDSM pizza shed and grew up into a real trattoria on Van der Pekplein, two minutes from the Buiksloterweg ferry. The room is warm and handsome, arched windows, checkerboard-tiled bar, walls the colour of Chianti, and the kitchen cooks the kind of Italian food that doesn't need explaining: burrata with chilli-sautéed spinach, arrosticini fresh off the grill, house-baked bread, pasta and pizza that respect the rules. Next door sits the Bar-Bottega, open from 13:00 for aperitivo, cicchetti, pizza al taglio by the slice and shelves of olive oil and pasta to smuggle home. Open seven days a week, dinner from 17:00, and the terrace on the square is free-for-all walk-in territory. It's the local Italian answer for half of Noord, and deservedly rammed with families, dates and ferry-hoppers alike.

Order · Start with the arrosticini di pecora, grilled sheep skewers that honour the name.

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FC Hyena
Photo: FC Hyena
07

FC Hyena

Boutique cinema on the IJ where the kitchen deserves top billing too.

FC Hyena calls itself a boutique cinema with a petit restaurant, which undersells how good the eating is. Two small halls, one electric blue, one burnt orange, both with sofa-style rows you sink into, screen the smarter end of the film programme, while the big colourful canteen up front runs from morning croissants to a proper dinner. The summer 2026 card reads like a Mediterranean holiday: pimientos de padrón, stracciatella with charred peppers and pane carasau, aubergine with smoked provola, cod under a potato-paprika gratin, salsiccia from Monte San Biagio on stewed beans, hazelnut semifreddo drowned as affogato. Vegetarians do conspicuously well. They only take bookings for six or more; everyone else just wanders in off the Aambeeldstraat, eats, and maybe catches a film, open until about 01:00, and Noorderparkers get a ticket discount with their huisvuilpas, which is peak Noord.

Order · Order the salsiccia from Monte San Biagio with bean stew, then the hazelnut semifreddo affogato.

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Klaproos
Photo: Klaproos Amsterdam
08

Klaproos

Pizza, good wine and dancing on a half-built Buiksloterham corner.

A pizza joint bolted to a corner of Buiksloterham where the streets are still half construction site, Klaproos does one evening arc extremely well: antipasti and a blistered pizza early, low-intervention wine as the light goes, then DJs and dancing between the tables until deep into Friday and Saturday night. It started as a pop-up, never bothered to become anything more polished, and is better for it, expect paper napkins, pasta for the pizza-averse, and a crowd that walks or cycles in from the new-build lofts nearby. The kitchen closes around ten; the room does not, running to 3:00 on weekends. It's the rare place that functions as dinner, bar and club without being bad at any of them. Cheap, loud and fun: bring a group, order too many pizzas, stay well past your bedtime.

Order · Split a couple of antipasti first, then go classic with the margherita before the dough runs out.

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Hangar
Photo: Hangar Amsterdam (Dennis Bouman)
09

Hangar

Corrugated-iron hangar on the IJ doing côte de boeuf and long sundowners.

A rust-and-mint corrugated hangar parked right on the IJ, with a city beach out front and palm trees that seem sincerely committed to the bit. Inside, under the curved green ribs of the roof, Hangar runs an all-day Mediterranean brasserie: Irish Mor oysters by the piece or half-dozen, Black Angus and jackfruit bitterballen, steak tartare cut from their own dry-aged côte de boeuf, then tarbot à la meunière, scaloppine al limone or poussin with mole verde. Lunch (12:00–16:00) means eggs Benedict, a Wagyu burger and a focaccia vitello tonnato. Yes, it hosts weddings and company parties, the space is huge and groups are the house sport, but on a summer evening, feet in the sand, sgroppino in hand, watching container barges slide past Hamerkwartier's cranes, it's hard to argue with any of it. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Order · Two of you? Split the 1.2 kg French Limousin côte de boeuf and finish with the sgroppino.

Full entryOn the map
Pllek
Photo: Pllek
10

Pllek

Container-built city beach where the vegetables outshine the sunset. Almost.

Yes, it's on every list, and no, that doesn't make it a trap. Pllek is a heap of shipping containers with a man-made beach on the NDSM wharf, and it earns its crowds honestly: the menu is at least three-quarters vegetarian, much of the produce is grown by the team in Amsterdam, and the meat and fish that do appear come wild or from the North Sea. The day runs long, breakfast from 09:30, lounging on the sand all afternoon, vegetable-led plates until the kitchen closes at 22:00, films on the beach in summer and DJs after dark on weekends. The cooking is better than any beach bar needs it to be, the sunset over the IJ is the best free show in the city, and on weeknights locals still comfortably outnumber the day-trippers. Take the NDSM ferry and stay too long.

Order · Build a table of the vegetable sharing plates and time it for sunset over the IJ.

Full entryBookOn the map
Vishandel de Zeemeeuw
Photo: Vishandel de Zeemeeuw via Yelp
11

Vishandel de Zeemeeuw

Noord's fish kiosk where cod kibbeling justifies the Saturday queue.

A blue-and-white kiosk on the Meeuwenlaan, fifteen-plus years deep into feeding the Vogelbuurt, with folding tables on the pavement and a counter crew who remember your order. De Zeemeeuw cuts its kibbeling from cod, not from whatever white fish was cheapest, fries it to order and hands it over with garlic sauce while the next batch hisses. On Saturdays the line stretches past the crossing; when Hollandse Nieuwe season opens in June, the banners go up and half of Noord turns out as if it were a national holiday, which in fairness it nearly is. Everything costs snackbar money and tastes like the fish stall of your childhood, assuming your childhood was lucky. Eat at the wobbly terrace tables, watch the ferry cyclists roll past, and repeat weekly like the regulars do.

Order · Portie kibbeling van kabeljauw with garlic sauce; in June add a Hollandse Nieuwe from the knife.

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SmaaQt
Photo: SmaaQt
12

SmaaQt

Van der Pekstraat's dependable table: Big Green Egg dinners, market-day lunches.

The Van der Pekstraat pick: chef Gurkan runs this corner spot with the energy of someone feeding his own street, which he is. Lunch means proper sandwiches and homemade soups for shoppers drifting off the Van der Pek market; dinner shifts to fish and meat off the Big Green Egg, with a menu that rewrites itself every few weeks around whatever's in season. The room seats seventy without feeling like a canteen, and the sheltered courtyard garden out back is one of the buurt's quieter suntraps. This isn't destination cooking and doesn't pretend to be, it's the reliable neighborhood table that Noord's most photogenic shopping street deserves, priced accordingly and open from mid-morning until late. Go on a market day, order the chicken satay everyone mentions, and watch the Pekbuurt go about its business from the window seats.

Order · The chicken satay off the Big Green Egg is the order regulars swear by.

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