Chapter 04 · Oud-West & De Baarsjes · Jan Pieter Heijestraat

Restaurant Gitane

8.2 /10

All-day Mediterranean with a Bib Gourmand and a natural-wine treasure map.

Gitane is what happens when someone actually commits to the all-day thing. Chef Angelo Kremmydas runs a kitchen that starts with brunch and ends with dry-aged côte de boeuf, in a room that reads seventies-Scandinavian, warm wood, soft edges, with a pavement terrace working the Jan Pieter Heijestraat crowd. The plates lean Mediterranean with detours: burrata under red cabbage, rhubarb and pistachio praline; steak tartare pushed through tonnato; wolffish in nam jim jaew. Michelin gave it a Bib Gourmand, which tracks, portions and prices stay honest for cooking this considered. The real flex is the wine list, 450-plus bottles they call the schatkaart (treasure map), heavy on natural producers and poured without ceremony. Come at four on a Tuesday or nine on a Saturday; it works at both.

Start with the steak tartare 'tonnato', capers, anchovy and dried egg yolk earn it.

What to order

Full menu

Bara with roti chicken€14
House-made Surinamese bara at brunch, the crossover dish people cross town for
Steak tartare 'tonnato'€14.50
Capers, anchovy and dried yolk; the Bib Gourmand plate reviewers keep flagging
Beef and lamb kebab€15
Smoked aubergine and pita, Ottolenghi-adjacent like most of the card
Côte de boeuf€14/100g
Dry-aged Holstein by the 100 grams, brown butter, the table-sharing endgame