Switie Poort (Deli Company)

The broodje bakkeljauw of Amsterdam lives here, on Bijlmerplein, for pocket change.

Everyone in Zuidoost has an opinion about broodjes, and a remarkable number of those opinions end at this counter on Bijlmerplein. Switie Poort, many locals still say Deli Company, its longtime name, does Surinamese sandwiches the way they're meant to be: bread packed to structural limits with your pick from over twenty fillings. The bakkeljauw is the legend, salted fish fried down with onion, tomato and spice until it's somewhere between a stew and a religion, and it costs less than a supermarket meal deal. Pom and kip kerrie are the worthy understudies. This is daytime food, the counter runs roughly nine to six, market hours, eaten on a bench in the square while the Poort does its magnificent multicultural churn around you. No reservations, no ceremony, occasionally a queue of people who know exactly what they came for.

Broodje bakkeljauw, extra pepper if you can take it; the pom sandwich is the right second order.