Roopram Roti

The city's benchmark roti, worth every minute of the Dapperbuurt queue.

Ask ten Amsterdammers where the best roti is and at least seven will say Roopram, then argue about which branch. This one, a few steps off the Dappermarkt, is the one that matters: a bright, no-nonsense canteen where the line snakes past the counter from opening at two until the kitchen winds down. The roti themselves are the argument-ender, supple, flaky flatbread folded around lamb or chicken stewed to collapse, with potato, egg and kousenband, the whole thing perfumed with masala that the Roopram family has been calibrating since their Paramaribo days. Order at the counter, grab a formica table, eat with your hands like everyone else. Note the house rules: Mondays closed, and the last ninety minutes are takeaway only, because a roti this good deserves to be eaten fresh.

Lamb roti, plus a barra (split-pea doughnut) on the side while you wait.

Photo: Roopram Roti