VRR

Bakery by day, the resurrected soul of Restaurant As by night, in an 1895 warehouse on Oostenburg.

First the bad news: Restaurant As is gone from the Beatrixpark. The good news is that Sander Overeinder packed up his sourdough and his Beemster farmers and moved everything to a 19th century warehouse on Oostenburg, teaming up with the Hotel de Goudfazant people along the way. By day this is Stadsbakkerij As, all long fermentation and pastry. Around six the flour settles and VRR takes over: a generous a la carte of Dutch ingredients cooked with real intent, grilled fava beans with sheep's cheese, kruudmoes with marrow and cockles, milk ice cream people describe in hushed tones. The name stands for Voorheen Rosa en Rita, a nod to the previous tenants of the building. The terrace between the brick and the wildflowers is one of the nicest places to sit in Oost, and the wine room leans biodynamic without preaching about it. Parool's critic went to an 8,5. She is not wrong.

The Diner de Quartier neighbourhood menu is the cheat code at 29.50; no reservation needed if you take a seat at the bar.

Photo: VRR