Restaurant Entrepot

Daily-changing, all-Dutch produce cooked over fire in a former billiard hall on the prettiest dock in town.

A former billiard hall on the Entrepotdok, all beams and bright walls, where the menu changes daily because it is written around whatever Dutch soil and the North Sea handed over that morning. Everything is sourced within the Netherlands, which sounds like a gimmick until you taste what they do with a beet or a stick of rhubarb over the fire. Hiske Versprille gave it a 9 in Parool and crowned it the paper's best restaurant of 2018, and the kitchen never coasted on that. Vegetables get the star treatment, meat and fish play support, and the open fire does the seasoning. Order three or four dishes a la carte like the staff suggests, or surrender to the set menu. The room hums rather than roars, service knows the wine list cold, and the Entrepotdok quay outside is one of the prettiest walks home in the city.

Do three or four a la carte dishes instead of the set menu and make at least two of them vegetables; that is where this kitchen shows off. Dinner only, Monday to Saturday from 18:00.