Orontes

Twenty years of Antakya charcoal cooking, steps from the market stalls.

When the Albert Cuyp stalls pack up, this is where the street's serious eating actually happens. Orontes has been cooking the food of Hatay, that border region where Turkish and Syrian kitchens blur into one glorious Levantine argument, for over two decades, and it shows in the details: pomegranate molasses and sumac in the mezze, dried Aleppo-style pepper on everything, lamb skewers licked by a proper open charcoal fire. Start with a spread of cold mezze (the smoky aubergine is the move), then commit to the mixed grill; every main lands with bulgur, cacık and salad, so nobody leaves negotiating hunger. The room is warm and unfussy, staffed by people who've clearly done this forever. Bring four friends and order like you mean it, this is group food, built for the middle of the table.

Order the charcoal-grilled lamb skewers with the aubergine mezze, the pomegranate molasses does the rest.

Photo: Restaurant Orontes

Photo: Restaurant Orontes