Cabron

Six-plus years of solid tacos and mezcal on the Albert Cuyp market, with its own stall for the walk-up crowd.

Cabron opened on the Albert Cuyp market in 2019 and has been quietly one of the most reliable Mexican kitchens in the city ever since, the kind of place that doesn't need a relaunch or a new chef every eighteen months to stay good. The room is cantina-style, vintage signage, a round communal table for groups, a proper bar for mezcal and cocktails. Tacos are the reason to come: carnitas with sweet potato puree and queso fresco, softshell crab with mango salsa, a battered cauliflower version that converts skeptics, each one built on a blue-corn tortilla and priced to order three or four per person. On busy market days a taco stand sets up right outside the door, selling straight to the street. A five-course taste menu runs certain nights for anyone who wants the kitchen to just decide. Once a month, Radio Cabron turns the whole place into a techno party without dropping the food. Consistency, not reinvention, is the whole pitch, and it works.

Open Tuesday-Friday 18:00-23:00 and weekends 18:00-23:30, closed Monday. The five-course taste menu (€21.50) runs Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday only.

Photo: Cabron