De Utrechtsedwarstafel
No menu: five courses from chef Esther van Meerten and Hans Verbeek's wine pairings, in a side street off Utrechtsestraat.
De Utrechtsedwarstafel has no menu to choose from. Chef Esther van Meerten, who learned the trade at John Fagel's Tout Court, cooks five courses that change with what the suppliers have. Owner Hans Verbeek, in charge here for almost twenty years, pours the wines. Five courses cost €110 without wine, €159 with the first level of pairing and €199 with the second; a sixth course is optional. The early dinner is three courses for €75, and you have the table until 20:00. There are 20 to 24 seats. The cooking draws on French, Italian and Dutch influences. Gilles van der Loo gave it an 8- in Het Parool in 2018, shortly after the previous chef of twenty years had stopped, and called the set formula a risk the restaurant gets away with. Gault&Millau lists it at 12/20. Guests write mostly about the pairings and Verbeek's stories behind every wine.
Book online Wednesday to Saturday; for a last-minute table, call or WhatsApp +31 6 20 44 75 59. The booking system offers no gluten-free, vegan or lactose-free menu, and credit card payments carry a 2% surcharge.
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