Veneur

The De Juwelier crew gone hunting: wood-fired French cooking with venison for the table and serious wine.

When part of the team behind the starred De Juwelier struck out on their own, they took over a panelled space on the Weteringschans, installed a wood and coal fire, and named it after the French word for a master of the hunt. That is the menu in one word: game and grill, French technique, direct flavors. Chefs Yoran Jacobi and Moriaan Koeleman send out venison tartare Andalouse, drunken rabbit with girolles, wood pigeon salad with smoked cherries, and a 400 gram venison chop Grand Veneur for the table, while co owner and sommelier Bas Hazen pours from a list good enough for Star Wine List. Michelin already has it in the guide. The room keeps its old mouldings and nostalgia, the cooking has none of the fuss you might fear. Friday through Sunday there is proper lunch service too, and a Sunday afternoon here, fire crackling, feels like France with better bike parking.

Sunday lunch (12:00-15:00) is the easiest table and the fire is going all day; for dinner, share the 400 gram venison chop Grand Veneur. Closed Monday; Tue-Thu dinner only from 17:30.

Photo: Veneur